Saturday, September 18, 2010

Territory Ahead Cascade Skirt

Last year on Stitcher's Guild, someone mentioned this great skirt on Territory Ahead, called the Cascade skirt:

This skirt is similar to the Sewing Workshop Lotus skirt:

But the Territory Ahead skirt is also similar to a a slit style circle skirt that I drafted last year:

In fact, it is almost identical to one-half of that skirt! But I am getting ahead of myself...

I decided to try to reproduce the Territory Ahead skirt, based on the photo on their website - I have not seen the skirt in person. It is basically an a-line skirt with a side drape and lined to the knee (based on one review that was posted). I played with the design in a small scale, using fabric scraps. Once I had the design figured out, I then realized it's pretty much the same as the slit circle skirt I drafted last year. Here is what the main pattern piece looks like (I neglected to add a grainline to the sketch, but the grainline runs perpendicular to the top of the skirt):

You cut two of these pattern pieces and sew the a-line side. You then sew the portion marked as "waist" (see the diagram), to the bottom of a yoke. My yoke is straight across at the bottom, but it doesn't have to be - you trim off any unevenness later when you mark the hem. I used a rectangular yoke with an elastic waistband, but if you prefer a fitted yoke with darts and a zipper, you can use that instead. You make the yoke as wide as you want, but I made mine about 4" from the bottom of the waistband to the skirt, because that placed the side drape on the hip where I liked it best. I also liked the selvedge on the fabric, so I sewed it to the outside of the yoke and let the selvedge edge form the side of the drape. But you could construct it more conventionally, if you don't want the selvedge edge showing.

Because the drape is not stitched together, it can fall open, revealing a lot of leg. So the skirt is lined to just below the knee. I used the same a-line shape that I used on the skirt (the non-draped side) and cut it out of a semi-sheer crinkled polyester from Fabrix. I left the bottom edge serged.

Inside out, showing the lining. The skirt is listing a bit to the side due to the weight of the drape, but it does not pull on the body because the fabric, a cotton rayon blend from Fabrix, is not that heavy.

Another peek at the lining.

When I drafted the skirt, I did not worry about the curve of the hemline. I just ignored it. After I sewed the skirt up last Sunday, I hung it for almost a week before hemming it this morning - I would recommend hanging it a bit because the drape is on the bias. When it came time to hem it, I pulled out DD2's punching bag, placed it upside down on a box, and put the skirt on it. The punching bag has a depressingly similar waistline to mine. I was then able to pin in a straight hem and to cut off the excess at both sides. Of course, a dressform would work even better. :)

My Impromptu Dress Form

Will I make this again? Yes, I really like this skirt. Because it is an a-line, it is easy to wear and move in - there is not too much fabric at the hem to get tangled around your ankles. It requires a drapey fabric, but not one that is too heavy or you might start to list to one side as you walk or it might pull on the skirt too much. The lining gives you the modesty you might require. All in all, it's a great design!!

Here you can see the overall shape.

21 comments:

  1. Thanks, Shams. This looks great on you. I am going to try this on some of my mountains of stash.

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  2. I wish had the skills that you have. Your skirt is fabulous.

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  3. What a pretty and graceful skirt, Shams. I somehow missed the TA original last year. Thanks for the details!

    Margy

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  4. A very inspiring post. Your outfit looks practical and feminine. I want that skirt.

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  5. You make the neatest skirts Shams. This one is beautiful and thanks for all the detail.

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  6. I have been trying hard to get the drape right for similar cascade skirts for my DD. Thanks for detailed explanation. Your pattern making skills are awe inspiring.

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  7. Very cute skirt, Shams. I always learn so much from your drafting projects, as they are so well thought out. I enjoyed seeing your impromptu dressform, a true case of necessity being the mother of invention.

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  8. Very nice drafted skirt! Information was most helpful.

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  9. This looks great and I think I will give it a try. You have inspired me.

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  10. What a stunning skirt! Your drafting skills are extremely good. I love that skirt with boots. Nice job all the way around!

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  11. Gorgeous skirt! Very flattering on you. Thanks for sharing all your info.

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  12. Your skirt is an amazing creation and the draping lovely. I am really in awe of your ability to do EVERYTHING!!!!!! BTW, you look great in your skirt, as it's very flattering,

    Karen aka Karendee

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  13. I tried this out for my daughter instead of a-line i made is as wrap around for her and the extended part which drapes was attached to the wrap around outer seam, though it drapes, still not satisfied with it, if you can please have a look at it and tell me where i went wrong. i think it is curve of the extended portion that i am getting it wrong. Thanks

    http://adithisammasews.blogspot.com/2010/09/wrap-skirt-with-cascade.html

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  14. Beautiful pattern. Sure I will give a try. Thank you for sharing!

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  15. This is a great looking skirt! Thanks so much for sharing the details. I'm going to try this...someday...

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  16. What an amazing skirt! And I love seeing your process. You have great skills (Xena the Warrior Princess used to say, "I have many skills").

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  17. Love this skirt. Looks easy to make. I love your blog! Makes me want to sew garments again.

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  18. I am now very excited about sewing something for myself, I sew professionally, "slipcovers" for the past 40 years and have forgotten how to sew clothes. You are incredible and make it looks extremely professional. Thank you Carrie

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  19. I never sew in my life, but seing your skirt made me wanting to make one. thank you

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  20. I just found you via Pinterest. Your self-drafted skirts are AMAZING. Thank you!! Now I finally know what to do with my fabric stash =)

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  21. beautiful skirts and great drafting. Thank you for sharing.

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